As
I step into the legendary train, I thank Sergey on last time, as I am
welcomed by Tchen To, the man in charge of my wagon.
I
discover the room that Natacha has booked for me, 1st
Class, two beds, a table, a personal light, carpet on the floor, and
my own bathroom. All this just for me. Which is actually pretty good
as I have to stay in that train for 99 hours.
I
feel like I need to give you some precisions :
The Trans-Siberian
line is the longest railway in the world. There are different routes
and the main one heading to Vladivostok was built between 1890 and
1916. I am heading to Mongolia so I will be on the Trans-Siberian
line for 5,655 km
until Ulan Ude, and then on the Trans-Mongolian Line for the next 650
km to Ulan Bator.
I
am too excited to go straight to bed so I chat with Tchen To. He
seems very happy, (ofering me a Chinese cigarette) apparently not so
many tourist take the time to have a talk with him.
I
meet many different people on board, and there is not so much to do
after contemplating the view from the window. It's a nice view
alright but after an hour you might want to do something else. So 2
Finnish guys counted 18 different nationalities.
There
is a restaurant in the train, so I go there for my first meal to try
some Russian food and a beer. (I'll have plenty of time in Mongolia
to try the Vodka). The food is very bad, I should have listened to
the tour guides.
Anyway
as I gave most of my cash to Sergey for the crazy ride, i'll have to
get my food from the small shops and people when the train stops.
There is always someone who want to sell you something.
So
one morning I was getting some stuffs, using my body language skills
to understand what's in those boxes, soup ? Mash ? Noodles ?
And
as I'm paying the lady, I realize that there is some kind of familiar
sound coming from behind me, like... a train leaving !!
Tchen
To is at the door : “Run Thomas ! Run ! ”
So
here I am, racing (again) with that train.
I
have to let go with a soup to catch the outside door handle and jump
inside.
Tchen
To closes the door laughing like a drain. He offers me some
cigarettes again for the fun.
From
Vladimir to Irkoutsk, birch and pine forests spread as far as you eye
can see. From times to times we come across some isolated
picturesque villages, it seem you could see Michel Strogoff riding
his horse through the mighty Taiga. But at some point, admiring the
scenery is a bit boring.
So
I open my book to learn how to speak mongol. The grammar is actually
quite tough. And I feel like I am really going to struggle to speak to
the Mongols and understand them. But I know that once i'll be
immersed in that culture I will have no choice but to improve.
On
one end of every wagon stands a Samovar. It's the social corner of
the train, where people meet and chat about their trip, where they
come from and how confusing it is to travel through time zones. My
neighbors inform me that early in the morning we'll be able to see
the Baikal lake. They promised to wake me up so I could take some
pictures
I
knew that it was the biggest and deepest lake in the world, but it's
when I actually sees it that I realize how huge it is.
From the train
I can only see a small part, it's like looking at the ocean, you
can't see the opposite shore. The lake is so blue that it is hard to
see the horizon (I must have had some good weather condition) and
that makes it look even more impressive.
At
that moment I regret not to have make any stop in Russia.
I
am now very close to the Russian border. There, we wait for many
hours on the platform so the Russians can check our luggage and our
rooms while a different engine and a different restaurant (Chinese)
is set to the train.
The
sun is rising and we are ready to go again.
The
scenery is changing.
We enter in a different territory covered with
small bald green hills, the train is going very slowly and there is
only one railway. From shiny greens, the colors are changing into a
dusty yellow. Here and there a stream ad some nuances to the steppes.
Horses are running away from a 10 year old riding to get them closer
to the Gers spread in the middle of nowhere.
That's
Mongolia.
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